Most of the BaseVac Systems are 230v ±10% 1 phase. Ideal voltage is 230v. Most should be wired to an external breaker or fuse panel. Check the breaker or fuse panel to ensure they are active.

Second, check the breaker in the BaseVac control panel and reset it if necessary.

The BaseVac panel has a fuse check and replace with the spare inside the fuse cradled, if necessary.

Check the high-level float is active. (In the control panel labelled TR, to the right of the breaker). If the float timer is blinking, it is not activated, the green light is solid, the timer is activated, and the tank is likely full. If the pumps do not turn on within 5-minutes of an activated float, check to ensure the high-level float switch in the air-water separator is wired correctly to the BaseVac control panel. View the switch inside the tank and ensure it is free to move up and down. Check to see if the gate valve on the drain of the tank is up (white handle off the drain of the tank).

Check if the remote switch is installed correctly, if not a jumper wire should be installed between terminals 10 (black wire) and 11 (red wire) to allow manual start.

The BaseVac System requires between 208V and 253V to run at full speed. Check the incoming voltage on the control panel and add a buck/boost transformer if necessary.

The noise is a low RPM noise normally associated with low-voltage. Check the exhaust air blow-off valve, located at the back of the system at the aluminum fitting. Older BaseVac systems are shipped with a grey schedule 80 plastic pipe adapter., which must be used. It allows internal space for the blow-off valve to fully open, allowing air to exit the pump. If not operating as it should, the pump will not start due to excessive back pressure. The old plastic fittings could melt over time and restrict the exhaust, call a BaseVac Dealer to upgrade the exhaust.

BaseVac vacuum systems provide industry-leading suction, which can expose mechanical room issues initially. When first installed, the vacuum often has enough power to clean years of debris from the lines. This debris can clog piping bends and amalgam separators. Before anything else, clean and flush the lines completely and restart the system.

Check all fittings and connections for leaks. Stronger suction can open cracks that would otherwise not be a problem.

Check the vacuum regulator valve to make sure it is adjusted properly. For more vacuum, twist the valve clockwise (follow instructions on valve).

Deadheading procedures -
1) Loosen the quick connect from the top of the tank that goes to the motors.
2) Pull the hose out and put a piece of hard material like a thick cardboard over the hose opening.
3) Turn the vacuum on and watch the gauge on the front of the pump. If it climbs to 23-25” of Hg, you have a perfectly functioning vacuum pump.
4) If the vacuum is low, call a BaseVac Dealer to have a service technician service your pump.
5) If the vacuum is high, reattached the hose and perform the deadheading on the inlet of the BaseVac tank. NOTE: you will need to unthread the quick connect from the inlet as the female end of the quick connect will not give you a tight enough seal to test for pressure.
6) If the vacuum is low:
- check the tank drain to see if the flapper valve is dirty and has material keeping the flapper valve open (quick troubleshoot, close the white handle gate valve ahead of the flapper valve to isolate the drain, if the vacuum pressure increases, the drain needs cleaning).
- If isolating the drain doesn’t help, check the tank for vacuum leaks.
7) If the pressure is strong (23-25” of Hg) off the top of the tank, your vacuum is functioning well, you may have a break in you vacuum lines.

This normally is a sign that the exhaust blow-off valve is not functioning properly and not letting the air out of the pump.

Check to make sure the exhaust valve is working properly.

Check to ensure the original BaseVac Exhaust Piping was used. If pre-2019, ensure you have the upgraded exhaust assembly installed.

If the BaseVac system is connected with an incoming voltage of less than 208V, the motor will fail eventually. Check the voltage and amperage to determine if the motor is failing.

If the internal or inline filter is dirty/hasn’t been changed in over 12-months, you may have a low-flow issue to do blocked air ways. The dirty filter creates back pressure, showing high vacuum, but does not allow airflow, making the vacuum feel weak.

This normally indicates a piping system blockage, as debris can move around, blocking the flow of air intermittently.

The volatility may also be associated with the draining of the air-water separator. When full, the system powers down for 3½ minutes while the tank drains. Depending on the piping system there may be minimal suction during this time.

Check the Air-Water Separator for clogs around the drain, as well